These Are The Sunscreen Ingredients Proven To Protect Skin And Reverse Aging (2025)

It’s understandable to feel your eyes start roll when someone mentions the importance of wearing sunscreen. After all, you’re well aware at this point that regular sunscreen use lowers your risk of skin cancer and can even make your skin look younger. “Sunscreen is one of the most important things you can put on your skin,” says Ife J. Rodney, MD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics in Fulton, Maryland.

This isn’t just theoretical. Research has found that using sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 15 can lower the risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by 40 percent and melanoma—widely considered the most dangerous form of skin cancer—by 50 percent. Another study found that using a broad-spectrum sunscreen, which protects against both ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays, lowers the risk of increased signs of aging, like fine lines, sagging, and hyperpigmentation, by 24 percent.

Meet the experts: Ife J. Rodney, MD, founding director of Eternal Dermatology + Aesthetics; Susan Massick, MD, a dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center; Cindy Wassef, MD, an associate professor at the Rutgers Center for Dermatology; Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital

But while TikTok is packed with people sharing their homemade sunscreen recipes, it’s really best to skip the DIY with this. After all, sunscreen ingredients that wind up in the bottles you buy are approved and regulated by the U.S. Food & Drug Administration. Meaning, you know you’re getting good protection when you buy sunscreen OTC in this country.

That said, there are a bunch of FDA-approved sunscreen ingredients and each works in a slightly different way. Here’s what dermatologists want you to know, so you can pick up the best bottle for your needs.

What are SPF filters?

SPF stands for "sun protection factor" and it’s a measure of how long it would take your skin to burn compared to not wearing any sunscreen. It’s a little more complicated than saying SPF 30 translates to 30 minutes of sun protection, though. The sun’s rays are stronger during certain points in the day, which throws a wrench in that calculation, the FDA points out. Plus, everyone's skin is different.

It's also important to note that SPF only applies to UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn and play a role in skin cancer development. But some sunscreens will also protect against UVA rays, which may cause premature aging of the skin—those are called broad-spectrum sunscreens.

As you many know by now, SPF filters are broken into two main categories: chemical and mineral (or physical). “Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing and reflecting UV light away from the skin, preventing penetration into the skin,” explains Joshua Zeichner, MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital. “They tend to be more cosmetically appealing and can be formulated to achieve ultra-high SPF levels.”

Mineral sunscreens are a little different. “Mineral sunscreens are physical blockers and reflect UV rays off the skin,” says Susan Massick, MD, a dermatologist at The Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center. These tend to be thicker than chemical sunscreens and may be harder to rub in, Rodney points out. But they also tend to be gentler on the skin. “Mineral sunscreens are less likely to cause rash or skin irritation in the way some chemical-based sunscreens can for people with sensitive skin,” Massick says.

Ultimately, “both mineral- and chemical-based sunscreens are safe,” Massick says.

How is SPF regulated?

The FDA tends to be pretty hands-off with topical skincare ingredients, except in the case of sunscreen. The FDA oversees sunscreens to make sure that they meet strict safety and effectiveness standards. With that, the agency has the power to yank anything from shelves (or prevent it from getting there in the first place) that doesn’t fit the bill.

Because sunscreen is considered a drug, it needs to go through rigorous testing before it can be sold and marketed in this country. That includes clinical trials, as well as testing to make sure that what’s on the label is actually in the bottle. (A good example: Products that claim to be water resistant actually have to show that they can hold up when you go in water.) A random thing to keep in mind, though: The FDA hasn’t approved new SPF filters in ages. Like, since 1999.

In 2019, FDA officials proposed a new rule on sunscreens, which would tweak the requirements for active ingredients in sunscreen—a maximum SPF, broad spectrum requirements (to protect against ultraviolet A and B rays), and proper doses for different types of sunscreens. That proposal would pull approvals for a lot of sunscreen ingredients that are currently FDA-approved, leaving only two ingredients (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) approved for use.

For the others that currently have FDA approval, the agency said there are “significant gaps” in evidence on how safe they are for use. However, their approval hasn't been yanked.

What are the SPF ingredients to look for?

Again, SPF ingredients can be bucketed into mineral and chemical filters. As of this second, there are 16 SPF ingredients approved by the FDA to be used for sunscreen. Here’s a breakdown:

Mineral

Under the FDA’s proposed order for sunscreens, these are the only SPF ingredients that would be generally recognized as safe (GRASE).

• Zinc oxide: This is a white, powdery chemical that blocks UVA and UVB rays.
• Titanium dioxide: The naturally-occurring mineral that protects against UVA and UVB. However, it doesn’t block the broad spectrum of UVA rays as effectively as zinc oxide.

Chemical

• Avobenzone: Avobenzone is usually considered the best form of protection against UVA rays. However, it’s not as protective against UVB rays.
• Cinoxate: This is a UV absorber that blocks UVB rays.
• Dioxybenzone: The ingredient is a derivative of benzophenone, and blocks UVB rays, as well as some UVA rays.
• Ensulizole: Also known as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, it doesn’t provide a lot of protection against UVA rays.
• Homosalate: This belongs to a class of chemicals called salicylates. While it doesn’t provide good UVA protection, it’s often combined with avobenzone for broad-spectrum protection.
• Meradimate: This ingredient absorbs UVA and UVB rays, although it isn’t considered as efficient for UVA protection as avobenzone.
• Octinoxate: This blocks UVB rays, but offers some protection against UVA.
• Octisalate: This ingredient is in a class of chemicals called salicylates and blocks UVB.
• Octocrylene: This is often added to products with avobenzone to help stabilize it and provide even more protection.
• Padimate O: This ingredient absorbs UVB rays.
• Sulisobenzone: This is a benzophenone derivative that provides some coverage against UVA rays.
• Oxybenzone: The widely-used chemical filter blocks UVA and UVB rays.

Remember how we said there were 16 ingredients overall? The FDA has moved these chemical ingredients out of the GRASE category over safety concerns. As a result, they’re not used anymore:

• aminobenzoic acid
• trolamine salicylate

What to look for in an SPF

Dermatologists suggest looking for a few things when you’re shopping for a sunscreen. “The product should have at least SPF 30 protection,” says Zeichner. You also want to look for the phase “broad spectrum” on the bottle, says Cindy Wassef, MD, an associate professor at the Rutgers Center for Dermatology. “This means the sunscreen has either physical or chemical blockers for the entire spectrum of the [ultraviolet spectrum],” she says.

Massick recommends choosing mineral sunscreens over chemical sunscreens when you can. “Not because of any concerns regarding toxicity or overall safety, but more because people tend to get more skin rashes and irritation from some of the ingredients in chemical-based sunscreens,” she says. (She also suggests avoiding fragrance, scents, and perfumes, since these also tend to cause skin irritation.)

But Zeichner includes this caveat: “Ultimately the choice of whether to use a mineral or chemical sunscreen depends on your personal preference.” Some of the mineral products can leave behind a white cast, which can be more visible if you have darker skin tones, he points out. “To avoid a white cast, stick to a chemical sunscreen or a mineral product that contains a tint,” he says.

Rodney sees it slightly differently: “I would never choose a chemical sunscreen over a mineral sunscreen,” she says. If you have a specific skin issue, or if you’re struggling to find a sunscreen that works for you, check in with a dermatologist. They should be able to give personalized suggestions from there.

Ultimately, remember that all dermatologists would agree that the best sunscreen is the one you'll use regularly.